I read this short article recently from Rock and Ice about Josh Wharton's recent alpine climbing ascents. He climbed Wild Thing (VI M7 WI5, 4300ft) on the east face of Mount Chephren, Infinite Patience (VI 5.9 M5 WI5, 6000ft) on the Emperor Face of Mt. Robson, and Greenwood/Locke (5.8 A2, 4000ft) on the North Face of Mount Temple all in one week. The climbs are absolutely incredible and extremely difficult, and to do all three of these climbs in one week is ridiculously difficult. The article is well worth reading.
http://www.rockandice.com/news/2002-josh-whartons-amazing-alpine-climbing-week
On a different note, I've noticed that Duane Raleigh, a writer (the editor?) for Rock and Ice, has made some pretty strong statements recently. About Conrad Anker he wrote, "Conrad Anker Crushes Everest w/o Oxygen." And about Josh Wharton's recent climbs, he wrote, "[Josh]. . . left the Canadian Rockies wondering what baseball bat they'd been beaten with." Now, I understand that these feats are pretty incredible and that Mr. Raleigh is excited about them, but since when have these mountains ever been "crushed" or "beaten" by climbers? The fact is that, to successfully climb these mountains, the mountains have to cooperate. I'm pretty sure no climber "beats" or "crushes" a mountain. Just a thought.
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